Ninety Two

Repairing old clothes (Part 1)

One of the most heart-breaking things to happen to your wardrobe is the inevitable death of one of your favourite pieces.

The life cycle of clothing tends to go like this.

1. You find a piece you love and snag it before anyone else can.
2. You wear it to death.
3. Then you notice a hole or tear and end up having to buy it again (or the next best thing if it’s sold out)

Unfortunately, this will eventually happen for every item in your wardrobe after a while but, there are ways to save your clothes, save the contents of your wallet and, help the environment all at the same time.

When you go shopping, it’s important to focus on the quality and functionality of the things you buy. Making sure that your wardrobe essentials are made from high-quality materials means that they’ll be able to last longer and will be less likely to sustain damage.

But if you’ve already got a closet full of faves that have some battle scars, you can pick up a needle and thread and give your clothes new life.

It’s easier than you think and can be done in many cool ways.

Fixing tears in seams

On average, seams are held together with an overlocking stitch, so that’s how we repair them. You might think that you need an serger to do a double overlock stitch but all you need is a domestic sewing machine and an over edge foot.

Turn your clothing inside out and find the tear.
Hold the two edges of the tear together and pin them.
Use an overlocking stitch to bind the tear together, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch.

Patching a hole (With fabric & Embroidery)
Using embroidery to cover a hole allows you to get really creative when repairing clothes, while at the same time giving them a fresh new look.

This can be done in many ways.

Criss-crossing embroidery stitches are a super easy way to cover holes with patches of colourful thread, Either in basic shapes or more complex designs. In terms of stitches, you can use a basic running stich, a split stitch or back stitch, though you’ll create a tighter stitch with a back stich than with any other.

These are only two of the basic ways to make repairs at home, stay tuned for part two where you’ll learn some of the more complex home repair methods.

Building a lasting wardrobe

There’s nothing I love more than taking the time to revitalise my wardrobe, going from store to store and picking out beautiful pieces to add to my collection.

It’s easy to walk into a store or log on to my favourite site and get way too excited with all of the options I’m presented with.

But all of that leads to impulse buying and spending far too much money on things that I’ll most likely never wear because they don’t go with anything else in my wardrobe.

Shopping aimlessly like that is no good and only hurts your bank account, but if you shop consciously then you can build up a wardrobe of versatile pieces that all go together to create timeless outfits.

Start with a foundation of basics
Here’s where you’ll gather the pieces that will become the foundation for many outfits. These items should be able to transition from look to look easily, and also be full outfits on their own.

Jeans & Trousers – Jeans and trousers make up half of your outfit so it makes sense to have them in multiple styles. Slim jeans and trousers are great for a smart casual vibe, while straight and wide leg give you a more relaxed vibe. In terms of colours you can’t go wrong with black or mid blue denim and black trousers.

Long & short sleeve tees in a range of colours – These serve as the foundation layer that can be worn under statement vests, camisoles and, shirts.

Fine knit jumpers and sweaters – The perfect foundation layer for cooler days.

Invest in your wardrobe
It’s important to buy clothes with the intention of not having to buy them again for at least a few months.

So you need to invest in quality clothing that isn’t prone to pilling or tearing.

Of course, there will be some general wear and tear, but lower-quality clothing will take more damage over time than clothing made from better materials.

Pima cotton – The superior older sibling to Upland cotton, Pima cotton has longer finer fibres so more can be packed into a weave and provide great protection from the elements and last much longer than regular cotton products.

Linen – Linen is great for the summer and hot climates as it’s incredibly breathable and resistant to lingering smells so it needs less washing. Because it’s made from bast fibres, Linen fabric is both very durable and flexible.

Alpaca & Merino wool – Alpaca wool is one of the most durable mammal fibres as well as being resistant to wind and water damage, while the fibres of merino wool are long and fine, meaning they create a softer weave that is also flexible and durable.

As well as investing in better quality fabrics, buying selvedge denim jeans is a great and more affordable way to keep jeans ship shape for longer. Selvedge woven edges keep jeans from fraying and unravelling, helping them stay in ship shape for a long time.

Final thoughts – Earlier I mentioned impulse shopping and how it leads to buying things that you’ll never wear. So if you want to avoid building a collection of things you’ll never wear, you need to shop mindfully. Take the time to think about how an item will look with your foundation pieces, and whether or not it fits your style and makes you feel confident and stylish.
– Think to yourself, ‘Will I want to wear this again and again?’
– Leave the item on your wish list and wait a week before looking at it again. If you still love it after some time, then it’s a keeper.
– Consider what styles have always spoken to you. Whimsigoth, coquette…

Capsule collection

Product list
Extra fine merino crew neck jumper (Uniqlo) £29.20
Grandad collar Linen shirt (Uniqlo) £34.90
Performance denim slim straight jeans (Duer) £129
Alpaca wool jumper (Superdry) £74.99
Oversized pima cotton T-shirt (Arket) £25
501 Levi’s original (Levi’s) £110
Double breasted wool coat (Monki) £75
Linen jersey T-shirt (H&M) £24.99

My inspiration

What inspires me?

Honestly one hundred and one things inspire me when it comes to the clothes that I wear and the things that I make. Sometimes my inspirations are tangible things like fashion brands and stylish people and sometimes they’re intangible concepts and ideas that spark my imagination.

So let’s get into my inspirations.

90s Chanel
Between their Ready to wear and Haute couture lines, during the 90’s, Chanel was serving up a gorgeous mix of dark romantic fashion, preppy suits and clean cut lines that made my heart skip a beat.
I spent a long time filling my wardrobe with pieces that could move between something, whimsigothic, preppy and, relaxed. Suit jackets that can be worn with crisp wide leg trousers for a preppy vibe or over a sheer dress in earth tones for a fantastical witchy look.

Chanel knows how to move from style to style with ease and that’s something I admire.

90s TV and Movies
When it comes to unique fashion and an unshakeable sense of style, the sitcom stars of the 90’s were truly killing the game. Their signature looks are still being re-created today and have created trends that millions have people have fallen over themselves to participate in. Sabrina Spellman & Willow Rosenburg are some of the originators of the Whimsigoth trend, While the Banks sisters were all about bold prints, colours and icon silhouettes.

Ashley Banks
Sabrina Spellman
Hillary Banks
Willow Rosenburg

Quick fashion lessons from 90’s icons
Ashley Banks – Don’t be afraid of bold prints and wild colour combos.

Hillary Banks – Consider quality when you shop and buy pieces that make a loud statement.

Willow Rosenburg – Change up your style every now and again. Cute and whimsical one day, then darker and edgier the next.

Sabrina Spellman – A mini dress and a cute pair of boots are always your best friends.

Nature
Nature is full of beautiful and inspiring things influence the way I dress a lot, from the vibrant colours and patterns to the way that vines grow over each other in layered stacks.

I’ve recreated the fluff of a moths wings with wool and linen, and the patterns of venomous frogs with colourful pieces of faux leather stitched together to make a truly unique duster.

The way that the natural world expresses itself is so free and unrestricted and it teaches me to not bind my expression to societal norms or the way that people believe I should dress.

Southern flannel moth
Climbing Ivy
Poison dart frog
Black pansy

I’m always looking for new things to inspire me and my work, and the process of learning about new fashion icons, classic media and natural beauty enriches my life beyond just fashion
Looking to lesser known sources of inspiration also opens you up to a wealth of knowledge that can influence every aspect of your life in the most brilliant ways.

So, you’ve heard what inspires me. What inspires you?

What’s your skin type?

Winter is my favourite season for many reasons.

I love wearing oversized jumpers and warm coats, drinking far more hot coffee than is reasonable for a person to drink and enjoying the snow (When we get any)

But the one thing I don’t love about the coldest season is how harsh winds and rain ruin my skin.
Over the years I’ve tried many different products that were promoted to me by influencers and Instagram ads until I realised that everyone’s skincare regime should be personal and tailored to your skin’s needs.

Everyone’s skin is different and there’s no product or routine that works for everyone, so you’ll need to do a little research.

There are five primary categories that people’s skin falls into:

Oily
Dry
Combination
Normal
Sensitive

There are a few methods to help you figure out your skin type.

The wait-and-see method

To start, wash your face with a gentle cleanser, then gently pat it dry.
Wait 30 minutes.
If your skin appears shiny throughout, you likely have oily skin.
If it feels tight and is flaky or scaly, you likely have dry skin.
If the shine is only in your T-zone, you probably have combination skin.
If your skin feels hydrated and comfortable, but not oily, you likely have normal skin.

The blotting sheet method

When pressed to the skin, blotting sheets absorb oil—and you can use them to help you understand what skin type you have.

After washing your face with a gentle cleanser, pat it dry and wait for 30 minutes.
Press blotting sheets to various areas of your face, then hold the sheets up to the light to see the oil markings.
If the sheets soaked up an abundance of oil from all areas of the face, you have oily skin.
If they absorb little to no oil, then you probably have dry skin.
If the sheets show only a small amount of oil from your T-zone, you have combination skin.
If you only see minimal oil from every area of your face, you most likely have normal skin.

Remember that any skin type can be sensitive and prone to breakouts but this happens less to those with Normal skin.

What to use for different skin issues (Ingredients to look for)

Oily skin (Cleansing ingredients)

Retinol
Accelerates cell turn over to remove dead skin cells, allowing new ones to be generated and unclogs pores.

Niacinamide
Soothes and calms inflammation, boosts collagen and decreases oiliness.

Salicylic acid
Breaks down dead skin cells and gets deep into your pores to clear debris and dirt. Salicylic acid is lipophilic — which means it’s attracted to oil and can effectively suck it out to unclog pores.

Dry skin (Super hydrating ingredients)

Squalane
Although squalene is naturally produced by the body its production slows as we age and causes our skin to become drier. Squalane works to hydrate your skin and, although it’s related to sebum, it does not leave the skin feeling oily.

Hyaluronic acid
Able to hold 1000 times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid adds moisture to the skin and has been shown to improve the elasticity of your skin and lessen the appearance of fine lines.

Coconut oil
Long used as a moisturiser, coconut oil adds moisture to the skin while also creating a barrier on the skin to slow the process of water evaporating to help retain moisture.

Sensitive skin (Gentle on skin ingredients)

Witch Hazel
A great ingredient to treat inflammation and irritation as well as acne and breakouts because other ingredients that treat acne can be too harsh for those with sensitive skin. Witch hazel can also be used to unclog pores and remove excess oils and debris.

Seaweed
Brown seaweed – listed as alginic acid on skincare labels, helps to add moisture to the skin.
Red seaweed – Also known as carrageenan, it’s great for anti-ageing and is full of antioxidants and helpful peptides.

Oat extracts
Oat extracts and oat oil have been used for a long time to treat minor skin issues and balance your skins microbiome (The layer of bacteria that protect your skin from irritants)

Products to use for different skin types

Sensitive skin
Inkey list oatmeal cleanser/ Thirst class oatmeal moisturiser beauty bay/ Seaweed and algee serum Holland and barret

Dry skin
The ordinary squalene serum/ The ordinary hyaluronic acid/ Vita coco coconut oil

Oily skin
Inkey list Retinol eye cream/Oleus Niacinamide serum/CeraVe salysilic acid cleanser

My self taught fashion journey

Intro

Fashion and design have always real passions of mine but for the longest time I stayed in my lane, only shopping and putting outfits together. But during the Covid-19 lockdowns I decided to finally get myself a sewing machine and see what I could make myself.

Where I started
During the first lockdown, with way too much time and nothing to do, my dad offered to buy me the sewing machine that I’d been saving up for and I started to teach myself how to alter my clothes so that I could save money on shopping and be more eco-friendly.
At first I broke three sewing needles in one day before realising that there were specific needles needed for different fabrics. After I figured that out, and found a few great YouTube videos to teach me the basics, I was on my way to being kind of good at sewing.

Why I started
Beyond wanting to save money on clothing by making it rather than buying, at the start of 2020 I also decided that I wanted to reduce my carbon foot print and contribute less to the damage that fast fashion can cause. I’m not saying that I’ll never shop again, but I am saying that

What I’ve learnt
To make:
Skirts
Strappy vests
Pleat
Basic repairs
Alterations (Eyelets, Corset backs, Lettuce hems)

Where I’m struggling

Pattern making
– When I first started sewing I stuck to alterations, taking old things in mar wardrobe and giving them new life. But after a while I decided to finally try my hand at making something from scratch. That’s when I bought pattern pieces and jumped in at the deep end, which was a big mistake. There’s a learning curve when it comes to using patterns, and a load of lingo and symbols you need to learn the meaning of before you can do anything. And making your own patterns from scratch is even harder.

Normally when I fail at something I want to quit straight away but instead, I bought a couple books on pattern making and pored over them until I’d gotten the basics down and was ready to put my knowledge into practice.

I still have a ways to go but I’m well on my way to being a pattern making natural.

Working with non stretch fabrics
Stretch fabrics have been my best friends throughout my sewing journey. While they can be tricky to sew with at times, they’re much more forgiving when it comes to the fit of a garment.
With non stretch fabrics your measurements and cutting need to be exact as there won’t be much movement in the garment to allow mistakes.

There were a couple books I could read and blogs I could look at to figure out how to work best with non-stretch fabrics, but the best thing to do was measure and cut again and again until I got my numbers right and then go from there.

Embroidery & embellishments
Aside from choosing cute fabrics to work with to give my projects something extra, there’s not much I can do without the ability to add my own embellishments. I started practicing embroidery to give my projects a little personality and while it’s a slow going process I’ve leant a lot of cool techniques I can use to make unique designs.

What I’m doing well at

Basic repairs and alterations
Repairing, hemming, dying and altering are all things I’ve taken too like a duck takes to water.
While I’m not ready to tackle the more difficult parts of sewing I’ve definitely got the easy things down and that’s allowed me to give new life to my wardrobe.

What I want to do/learn next

So far making trousers and shorts has been my biggest challenge and remains what I want to do next. The amount of measuring you need to do to make sure that trousers fit in all the right places seriously messes with my brain. Skirts and dresses are so easy to make because most of them just slip over your head and your but trousers are a real challenge that might just drive you crazy.

But I’ll still keep trying.

In short, I’m very early on in my fashion journey and I know that with a lot of reading and a lot of practice I’ll get far. I’ll just have to have the patience of a saint and the discipline of a martial artist, kinda hard for someone with ADHD to do, but I’ll try.