What does a professional picture frame do? What specialized knowledge do they have that helps in their decision making for design and materials? Why consider having them frame your next piece of art, photo, memorabilia and more?
Why do we frame art, photos, and memorabilia?
- For aesthetic reasons
- To make them easier to hang/display
- To preserve them – for professional picture framers, this is at least as important a consideration as is aesthetics
Preservation
- Unprotected pieces can be damaged (physical and environmental)
- How much preservation is desired depends on value (value can be monetary, but also sentimental) and expected length that the piece will “live”
- Preservation is always a compromise of cost and environmental effects upon it over its expected lifespan
Components of a framed piece
- Frame
- The primary purpose of a frame is to house components, that together, protect the art
- The depth of the rabbet (the “inside” portion of the frame) should be deep enough to house the glazing and the entire mount package
- Many mass-produced frames do not have sufficient depth
- When aesthetics of one frame is desired, but it doesn’t have enough depth, the depth can be increased by stacking additional frames
- Glazing
- Protects from (some) physical damage from the front
- Acrylic glazing is a better choice where falls and impact might be more common
- Conservation glazing blocks a wide spectrum of harmful UV light
- It seals the front side of the frame package from most environmental damage
- Protects from (some) physical damage from the front
- Mount package
- Includes the backing board, the mounting method of the piece to the backing, and any matboard(s)
- The purpose is to isolate the art from anything that could be environmentally harmful
- It should be designed so that the art piece can be removed as easily as possible
- Frame and mat design may change, but most people want to keep the art, so ability to change designs easily is an important consideration
- The frame, glazing, and matboards might incur damage from falls and impacts, so they should be easily removed from the art
- The matboard is not just about design and aesthetics
- It places space between the glazing and the art
- This is particularly important if the glazing is glass, or the art medium is friable medium (such as pastel and graphite)
- The matboard also helps control humidity inside the frame
- It is the first to expand/contract and helps keep the art from experiencing direct moisture
- It places space between the glazing and the art
- The mounting method varies based on the medium, size, depth, and other considerations of the art piece
- Common for prints and photographs is hinging using conservation-grade hinging tape (not fully reversible)
- For originals and more monetarily valuable pieces, reversible methods such as washi and paste hinging, corner mounts, and many other methods are used
- The piece should always be mounted to the mounting board, not to the matboard
- The minimum amount of adhesive should be used on the piece to keep it secure
- If no mat is desired and the glazing is glass, spacers should be used to provide an air gap between the art and the glazing
- Direct Contact Overlay against acrylic is acceptable for most prints. It is not recommended for original works or where the pressure over time could be a problem.
- The mounting should not be so secure that the art has no way to fall off of the mounting adhesive
- In case of severe shock (drops), the purpose of the mounting is for it to fail so that the art (generally the 2D paper kind) can fall freely instead of tearing
- Backing
- The backing “tidies up” the back
- But the most important part of the backing is that it seals in the inside environment
- It is the back barrier to environmental effects and damage
- I have personally seen how a well-sealed package has survived fires quite reasonably well from smoke damage
- Note on metal frames: it is very difficult to properly seal the back of a metal frame. One solution is what is called a “sealed package” in which the glazing and the mounted piece is sealed all the way around using aluminum tape.
- Hanging/Display components
- Hanging and display hardware choices depend on the size and weight of the piece, and where the piece will be displayed
- In a high-traffic area, a more secure system might be desired
- For particularly high-dollar value pieces, security hardware may be needed
- There are different sizes and gauges of hardware used with hanging wire
- Sawtooth hangers are rarely recommended, except for low-value, lightweight pieces
- Hanging and display hardware choices depend on the size and weight of the piece, and where the piece will be displayed
A Few Notes about “Acid-Free”
- It is a marketing term
- For preservation, we want to use conservation grade materials throughout
- Something could be labeled “acid-free” but degrade over time because some of the materials are not conservation grade
- This includes tapes, glues, and other adhesives
- This also includes many inexpensive matboards
- The surfaces are acid-free, but the core is not lignin free, nor is the matboard buffered, which means that over time the core will yellow and acid will leach into the art
Continuing Education of Picture Framers
The best practices around picture framing change and evolve as materials come and go, as better science is learned. A professional picture framer strives to keep their knowledge and practice current through continuing education.





























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