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Diving in Ishigaki

2025-12-29

For some reason the highest mountain in Okinawa is not on the main island, but rather far to the southwest on the less-visited island of Ishigaki, a summit by the name of Mt. Omoto. The mountain itself is not famous — people usually don't go to Ishikawa for hiking — but you can if you care to.

The last time I visited this place was in late 2019. Certainly things have changed in the last six years. If you read the newspaper, they'll tell you that things are changing faster than ever in the modern world. But that's not what it feels like down here. The things that make this place nice to visit — friendly people, scuba diving, nature, Okinawan food — feel similar to my previous visit.

For three days I went scuba diving. The dive boats leave from the port on Ishigaki, and there are dive sites around all of the nearby islands — Taketomi, Iriomote, Kohama, Kuroshima, Aragusu, and Ishigaki itself. Scuba diving is a magical thing, difficult to describe in words. It's a lot quieter under water, for one. And then the colors are all kinds of exciting — blue tends to dominate, especially at depth, but brilliantly colored coral and fish are all around as well. One neat thing about Ishigaki is the small things to find, and if you're with a knowledgeable dive buddy or dive master, they'll point to something, you come over and stare at it for two minutes, and finally you will see a little shrimp smaller than your pinky nail, or translucent tubes that look like tiny smiley faces, or who knows what it might be. Sometimes you'll stare for two minutes and can't figure it out, and they'll tell you when you're back on the boat. Anyway, there's some nice diving down here.

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Mt. Omoto was next on the list. A quick bus ride and a 1-hour walk brought me to the top of the mountain. The summit is covered with shrubs, so there aren't any panoramic viewpoints, but it's still an enjoyable way to spend a morning. After the hike, rather than wait two hours for the return bus, I took a 10 kilometer stroll through the hills, past the pineapple farms and sugarcane fields, back to downtown Ishigaki. The next day, my last full day on the island, I went to a different one. Taketomi is a 20-minute ferry ride, and walking down the beaches and up the dusty roads is a scenic way to spend time... And that's it, a week down here. Scuba diving, hiking, scenery, books, sure thing. Happy holidays!

There must be something precious here, that no textbook can teach you. That's the islanders' treasure. —BEGIN (2002)

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Riding in North Kansai

2025-11-02

As autumn comes to a close, the time for a motorcycle ride is now, before colder weather makes it impossible. The last place on my list, the Sixteen Motorcycle Roads, is the Mikata Rainbow Line, which goes around the Mikata Five Lakes (Mikata Goko) in western Fukui. It's possible to do this as a day trip from Kyoto, but because Mt. Ibuki is in the vicinity, and Mt. Ibuki is on the list of 100 Famous Japanese Mountains, I opt instead for a twenty-four hour rental.

On Saturday morning I take the train to Kyoto and rent the bike. Then I ride to Mt. Ibuki, but just as the weather forecast predicts, Mt. Ibuki is hiding in a downpour. Well, I expected the rain and have the right gear, so I carefully ride to the parking lot, walk the final twenty minutes to the summit, and have a mug of hot chocolate. The sun peaks through a gap in the clouds for half a minute and decides not to linger. Neither do I. So I ride on, down the mountain and then northwest for two hours to a hotel for the night.

The next morning, the weather has taken a sunny turn, and at eight o'clock I head for the Mikata Rainbow Line. It's a few minutes from the hotel, and because the tourist facilities don't open until nine, the road is empty. At this early hour the only people around are locals and riders like myself, and it's an enjoyable ride up and down the hill and curves around the lakes. Then I head south, following Route 367 for a few hours. The road stays in a river valley, and by mid-morning there are hundreds of cars and motorcycles out enjoying the fine autumn weather. This scenic highway is a welcome change from Saturday's expressway riding. The final hour of the morning is a quick jaunt east, across Lake Biwa, and then a bit of lakeside driving south, down to the rental shop. Then I hop the train and head home.

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Canada

2025-08-20

This summer was a good time to visit Canada. I initially thought about going to the U.S., but what with Trump's anti-foreigner policies and the immigration police locking people up all the time, Canada had a greater appeal. Why not visit the Canadian Rockies? Never been there before. Betsy and Dex said we should go to the Bugaboos, so we did. Great.

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On the first day we drove to the Conrad Kain Trailhead and hiked up to the Conrad Kain Hut. The road was rough, but the rental SUV handled it fine, and the hike was short but steep, so we took our time... We had several ideas for the next day. In the end, we decided to hike up and over the pass to Cobalt Lake. This was a good idea, but what we had not counted upon is the fact that while there are many rocks, cairns are scarce, and the trail is mostly non-existent. But we were confident, and experience was on our side, so we climbed up the scree slopes, boulder hopped through the rock fields, walked down the glacier, and eventually found our way to Cobalt Lake. The route was sketchy and fun... On the third day, consistent with day before, we found that the Cobalt Lake Trail doesn't exist in places, but with the assistance of GPS and offline cellphone maps, we meandered out of the mountains and back to civilization... A spectacular three-day hike, provided you have the skills and strength.

The next day my parents wandered west and I drove up to Glacier National Park — the Canadian one — for several days and then headed up the Icefields Parkway to Jasper, where David joined me up. Jasper, Banff, and the Parkway connecting them are rightly famous.

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The hiking and camping were excellent. The mountains were majestic, the glaciers were gigantic, the waterfalls were wonderful. In the words of Stompin' Tom Connors, In Canada, where adventure ever falls — in Canada, we get to see them all.


Taiwan

2024-12-30

Taiwan is close to Japan, relatively inexpensive, and not particularly cold in the winter, which makes it an ideal destination for winter break. Although I had visited Taipei in 2019 for Julie & Max's wedding, that was a weekend trip with little time to see the country and the countryside. This vacation, there were more than enough days to visit Tainan and Kaohsiung in the south, and then Taipei and the surrounding area in the north.

The food and drink were excellent everywhere, with "drink" referring to coffee, although tea lovers say that the tea is spectacular too. Food is interesting because spending more money doesn't make the taste improve. Google Maps and the night markets provided plenty of inexpensive eateries with exciting entrées.

East of Taipei in a town called Jiufen, the A-Mei Teahouse, said to be the inspiration for Spirited Away, was quite amazing. The crowds arrive around 11AM, and if you get there early, before many shops open, have a serene stroll on the narrow sidewalks, all on the side of the mountain with a view of the sea. From that location, it's a jaunt down to Houtong, a coal mining town turned cat-themed village. Following that I went for a walk south and stumbled into the Sandiaoling Tunnel. Of course the signs for the tunnel, including useful information such as where it goes and how long it is, are all written in Chinese, but translation apps are boring, and it was more interesting to go inside and start walking... Apparently, the tunnel leads to a town called Mudan, which is not particularly notable for tourists, but it has a train station so you can get home after the spelunking session has concluded.

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It's so easy to travel internationally these days. Google Translate makes ordering food relatively simple — just take a picture of the menu, or even screenshot a menu pic on Google Maps, and walk in ready to order — and OpenStreetMap and Google Maps make navigation a piece of cake. Many buses and trains in Taiwan, as in many countries, have signs with the stops in English, and to pay you swipe the card when boarding and disembarking, so you don't have to calculate fares or learn the numbers. Ideally we would all have time to study the language for a few months or years prior to visiting, because surely talking with the locals would make the journey even more rewarding, but that's easier said than done. Anyway, it was a fun trip.

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Hiking Oze

2024-08-28

I started climbing the peaks of Oze last summer and returned this summer for more adventure. Oze is a 4-hour drive from my house, and it's remarkably remote. The last real town is Uonuma, and heading east from Uonuma on Highway 352 brings two hours of hairpin turns and curves that look like malaria germs, naturally with no cell signal. What few people can be found are there for fishing, hiking, and hot springs. Some of the roads and villages are summer-only, and you get the feeling that it's just you up here. I climbed Mt. Naeba (Niigata), Mt. Echigo-Komagatake (Niigata), Mt. Aizu-Komagatake (Fukushima), and Mt. Hiragatake (Niigata), all on Japan's Top 100 Mountains list.

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Some years ago, there were a great many free campgrounds in the country. These days you can find a few here and there, but what's more common are places that charge 500-1,000 yen for a night. Search online for 無料キャンプ場 and see what comes up. I prefer to use these basic campgrounds when hiking because your average campground is more likely to be designed for glamping and barbecuing. There's nothing wrong with those activities, but they tend to bring a noisier crowd and higher prices. Also, for some reason they tend to have "check-in by five" policies, which doesn't work well if you arrive after a long hike or drive. On the other hand, some commercial campgrounds have great views and facilities, and the crowds are a non-factor in the off-season. Either way, there's some beautiful nature to be found.

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Kyushu Counterclockwise

2024-08-06

There is a ferry from Tokyo to Kyushu, all the most people don't know about it because it's slow and expensive. But it's not expensive, at least relatively speaking, if you already own a car and your other option is to fly to Kyushu and rent a car. So then you might think to yourself, "Why don't I go down there for two weeks and camp and hike? That seems like fun, right?" And you would be right. It is a lot of fun.

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One thing to be careful of is the weather. In the age of climate change, all kinds of exciting things can happen. For example, it could be above 100° for seven days in a row. That's the kind of thing that might make one want to stay inside. It's also the kind of thing that might make one want to climb high mountains, because the temperatures are cooler the higher you go. If you were to climb, for example, Mt. Kyo (Saga) and Mt. Unzen (Miyazaki), you could take the ferry and then drive south camp on the coast, and then climb Mt. Kaimon (Kagoshima) and Mt. Karakuni (Miyazaki), the highest peak of Mt. Kirishima.

You might be inclined to summit Mt. Kunimi (Kumamoto), but that's easier said than done because mudslides took out all of the roads leading to all of the trailheads anywhere near the summit, and mudslides may also have taken out of the trails, although we can't find out until the roads get rebuilt. So then you might drive north, because the mountains near Mt. Aso are panoramic and onsen abound.

The highlights of hiking in Kyushu are perhaps Mt. Aso (Kumamoto) and Mt. Kuju (Oita). It's well worth driving on the Aso Panorama Line, and then following the Yamanami Highway — what a spectacular road — all the way into Beppu, so that you can tour the seven Hells, although the prospect of going to see extra hot hot springs on hot summer days might lead some to wonder when proper planning went out the window. But by the time you think about that, after a brief stop at a monkey nature preserve and an aquarium, you'll have moved on, back to the cooler mountains, so that you can summit Mt. Sobo (Miyazaki) and Mt. Shaka (Fukuoka).

And that's it. By that point you will have climbed the highest point in each prefecture in mainland Kyushu, along with the Top 100 Mountains located therein. You will also have ridden two of the Top 16 Motorcycle Roads. If you still have time to spare, you could drive to eastern Yamaguchi and hike Mt. Jakuchi before slowly meandering back east, along the northwestern coast of the prefecture, finally returning to the ferry terminal in Kitakyushu. That all makes for a nice vacation. You should try it sometime.

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